Behind The Scenes: 1205
Paula Gerbase, designer and founder of 1205, just keeps on impressing us with her brilliantly understated collections – and this London Fashion Week was no exception. She allowed us to us into her universe as we picked her brain about music and creative processes.
|WORDS: ANDERS REDDER NØRGAARD|
PHOTOS: BENJAMIN MARK BENOLEIL
INTERVIEW: VICTOR THOFT
Looking at her latest collection, it’s no surprise that Paula Gerbase describes herself as a cut and construction geek. A nomadic trek through the epic scenery of the Atlas Mountains inspired the Central Saint Martin graduate to create one of her coolest collections yet. Sneaking behind the scenes, we got to know just how much fabric means to this intelligent and curious designer.
B&O PLAY: You were born in Brazil and raised in different countries like the States and Switzerland before moving to London. Is your taste in music as diverse as your upbringing?
Paula Gerbase: My eclectic upbringing definitely has had a strong influence on the diverse music I’m into – I can easily go from Harald Grosskopf to Moacir Santos to Steve Reich – that melting pot of cultures, languages and ideals reflects 1205’s cultural heritage too.
B&O PLAY: How does music feature in your design process?
Paula Gerbase: We listen to music in the studio, always varied, but generally I am drawn to particular sounds depending on the season and the themes I’m working with. While we work with visual mood boards, the music that we surround ourselves with for the six months in the lead up to a collection also has a definitive influence on what fabrics we develop or how a garment is cut.
B&O PLAY: What is the main inspiration for your new collection?
Paula Gerbase: Spring/Summer 2016 was inspired by a trek through the arid terrain of the Atlas Mountains – it explores a nomadic existence.
B&O PLAY: Name a piece of music that has inspired a design of yours?
Paula Gerbase: As a sound, Kraftwerk has always been a constant presence every season while I work on the collection when I’m alone late nights in the studio. The Oceanheart album by Harald Grosskopf is also representative of elements I try to instil into 1205.
B&O PLAY: What is it about music and creative processes that synchronize so well?
Paula Gerbase: Creative processes are about immersion and music is very immediate element which can change the energy of a space – it’s invaluable to my work and an important piece of the puzzle of objects I surround myself with.
B&O PLAY: What are your thoughts on incorporating music as a part of your shows?
Paula Gerbase: Music completes a show and helps create the atmosphere – alongside the location, it’s an opportunity for a designer to convey the feeling of a season and invaluable to drive home a message.
B&O PLAY: Which tunes should we listen to this fashion week?
Paula Gerbase: When it comes to fashion week we like to keep things calm in the studio during preparations for the show – Music For Airports by Eno is currently playing from our B&O Play A9 speaker and keeping us all focused.
Show images by InDigital. All Rights Reserved.